SOUTH AMERICA 2007

August 7^th, 2007

Greeting from Lima, Peru. Unbelievably, I made both flights although the Toronto to Lima flight was in the balance. I can’t believe I have finally arrived in South America. In fact, it’s a number of firsts, first time in the Southern Hemisphere, first time across the Equator, first time to a country that only has four letters (does Maui count ?) and first time to a city named after a bean !!!!!!

The flight down was a little disappointing. First of all Debbie Travis (of noted T.V fame) took up most of the Business Class with her entourage and had the cabin crew announce that she was on board and going to Peru to do the Machu Picchu Trek. HELLO................I´m also going to Machu Picchu but then again, I was only flying "Stand-By". Secondly, no-one bothered to think that there might be a hungry "Veg-Head" on the flight (the meal choices were DEAD COW or DEAD CHICKEN) and the snack was.......you guessed it.......DEAD PORK. Still.........at what Debbie was paying, I think I still won. Strangely, no-one announced that we were crossing the Equator. I thought there might be some ancient ritual.......you know.....sacrifice a goat or at the very least a non-suspecting virgin or maybe even kiss the person sitting next to you. Well, I guess no-one thought to bring the goat, there were no virgins on board and I had an empty seat next to me. When I mentioned it to the burly chap (with shaved legs as thick as tree trunks......HE WAS WEARING SHORTS !!!!!!!!) that this might be the case, he simply looked at the empty seat and breathed a sigh of relief.  

The hotel taxi driver was not waiting at the airport, as promised, so after hanging around for 30 minutes, I secured a regular cab and made it to La Posada Del Parque around 1.30am. The hotel is very nice, I slept like a baby (until noon), had a 30 minute chat with the lovely lady at reception about all the sights and sounds of Lima (she didn’t speak English and I didn’t speak Spanish) but I really did feel that we connected. I haven’t a friggin clue where to go but hey, this is South America.

First impressions........very clean (not at all like India), really friendly people and a tad cold. Still, that’s why I packed t-shirts and left all my warm clothes behind (space economy). I have no idea what it will be like at 12,000 or 15,000 feet but I guess I can always buy some warm clothes.

Anyway, off to see some sights, grab some lunch and have some fun. It’s my next great adventure and you are all along for the ride.

August 7^th, 2007

As I was lounging around in bed, I thought it would be a great idea to do a "John & Yoko" and stay in bed all day and relax. Perhaps I should have gone with my gut feeling.

After having an engaging conversation with the lady behind the counter in the hotel lobby, and not understanding a word she said to me, I ventured out into the streets of Lima. To be honest, I was really in search of food, having missed breakfast. I was also interested in finding the catacombs.

I don’t think I had been walking for more than 45 minutes before I was accosted by two menacing looking men, on a very crowded street, who came up behind me, and thought it would be a good idea to wrestle (or maybe yank would be a better word) my camera case from around my neck. I am not sure why they were unsuccessful because they certainly had the "Element Of Surprise" but they also had a "Pissed Off Buddhist" to deal with and I am happy to say.............the Buddhist won. Like one of Dino’s Martini’s, I was a little shaken and perhaps a little stirred but I decided that I would still venture on in search of food (you can see where my priorities lie).

Things went rather well for about another 20 minutes before I started to get strangers come up to me and try to strike up a conversation. I resisted until this nice man (around 60) came up, asked if I wanted to have a beer and chat. He was from La Paz, a jazz saxophone musician and had traveled throughout Colombia, Ecuador and Peru playing gigs. He took me to a restaurant and we ordered a large bottle of beer (1.5 liters). Within five minutes, a friend of Jose’s arrived and asked if he could join us. Both were ex-hippies, into all the bands of the 60´s and Pedro was also a folk musician from Puno. More beer arrived and so did another friend, Marcus, a teacher from Iquitos. I must admit I found this very odd that magically, all of Jose’s friends would find us in this small restaurant in the heart of Lima. We ordered two large platters of local fish, more beer and Marcus decided to give me a crash course in Spanish. They were all so polite, very gracious and seemed to genuinely enjoy the conversation and the company. I kept wondering where all this was going. I mentioned that I was heading to Puno and Lake Titicaca and Pedro asked if I had tried coca leaves. I said "No" but I wanted to get some because of my concerns about altitude sickness and how it would affect me. Marcus said that for 100 soles (about $ 30), he could get me a large bag which is perfectly legal in Peru and Bolivia (I had already checked this out). I agreed..........

We continued to drink, eat and be merry until it was time to leave. As their "Host".......how the hell did that happen, the bill was my responsibility. Now.....here is where the con comes in, worthy of the British T.V Show "Hustle". The bill came to 580 soles (roughly $ 185 US), I almost fainted. I appreciate that we had polished off two large platters of food and seven 1.5 liter bottles of beer but this is Peru........things are supposed to be dirt cheap even in Lima.

Realising that I was outnumbered and had been taken, I paid the bill and Marcus paid for a taxi back to the hotel (very big of him). I am assuming that the "Scam" involves the restaurant inflating the bill and giving the "Three Amigos" their share. I never saw a menu so I can’t be sure but once again, my gut feeling told me that I had been taken.

When I got back to the hotel.........a little buzzed from all the beer, I asked the lovely girl Gkori, behind the counter, if the leaves were in fact coca. She confirmed that they were but also told me that my friends had charged me 10 times the going rate. When I told her what had transpired, she laughed and told me that I had been taken. It wasn’t a mean laugh........in fact she seemed genuinely concerned about me which made me feel a lot better. I offered her some very expensive coca leaves, she ordered me a pizza (and forewarned me it would take an hour to make) and we laughed about the whole experience.

The moral........well I am not really sure what it is. I have been on this incredible journey for the last five years, traveling around the world, absorbing different cultures and learning a lot about myself. I know that I do need to be less idealistic, stop wearing rose coloured glasses all the time and stop trying to see the good in everyone I meet. Maybe that is the lesson that Peru will finally teach me.

For those of you who have followed my musings before, you will be happy to hear that as I write this e-mail, ENYA is playing. Since my friend Kelly loves Enya, I will resist the urge to write anymore.

August 8^th, 2007

Today......I have hired a taxi to take me into the heart of Lima for some unfinished business. Tomorrow, I fly to Cusco and start the Inca Trail.

P.S I have also realised that I am in the land of carnivores. Marcus told me that the delicacy in Cusco is "CUY" which means Guinea Pig. Apparently, they are huge, look like rats, and they eat everything including the head and the brains. I think I am going to lose a ton of weight this trip. Where the hell is TREES when I need them ? Liz and Chelsea........do you deliver ?

August 8^th, 2007 – Later On…….

A much better day. Started off with a decent continental breakfast at the hotel and then decided to take a taxi into the centre of Lima to see the Cathedral De Lima and the Museo San Francisco which also has the Catacombs. Both were really impressive and I really got a very strong sense of how much religion means to the average Peruvian. I had a nice lunch at the Bar Cordano and then ambled around the shops looking at all the native Peruvian Art. Peruvians, on the whole, seem to be quite shy. They seem reluctant to approach you in the shops and in two days, I have only come across three beggars. It must be a hell of a shock to the average Peruvian when he visits Vancouver. I can’t go two blocks, let alone two days without being harassed. Peruvians do however, like to make out, big time, in public. The Plaza Mayor and Plaza San Martin were full of couples expressing themselves. There is a huge police and army presence around Plaza Mayor, mainly because of the government buildings, complete with auxiliary tanks and water cannons. Without exaggeration, there were police or army every ten yards. Mind you........I am sure most would look the other way if a tourist ran into trouble. Oh....wait.......they already did.......yesterday. A couple of interesting things, INCA COLA is the "in" drink in this part of the world. It looks like Mountain Dew and tastes like bubble gum. I am sure Inca’s all over Peru are turning in their graves at the thought. Peruvians are mad about desserts and pastries. Peruvian women, for the most part, are gorgeous (even more adorable when you can’t understand a word they are saying), Peruvian men.......sorry Dino.....I haven’t a clue. I did decide to walk all the way back to the hotel and I did try retrace some of my steps from yesterday. O.K.....I admit it.......I was looking for Jose because I really did fancy whacking him on the side of the head. I seriously doubt he was Bolivian, a jazz saxophonist or even an ex-hippie.......Bastard. I also resisted the opportunity to price a 1.5 liter bottle of Christol Beer. I prefer to believe that 11 liters of beer and two platters of fish really do cost $ 185 US.

August 9th, 2007

Another functional continental breakfast but it has helped to stave off the hunger pains. Last night, I ordered a grilled cheese sandwich, for $ 2.50 US at the hotel, and honestly, it was about 4 inches by 3 inches and about 8mm thick. I went to bed hungry. Some interesting observations:

I watched in amazement as two women, in a department store, freaked out when it was time to go on an escalator. They had never seen one before. People tried to drag them on and they flatly refused. God knows what they would make of an elevator.

Have you ever wondered what happened to good old fashioned typewriters ? O.K......I know I am dating myself but they are those cute machines that came into fashion somewhere between Moses, the "Tablets Of Stone" and modern day computers. Well, they are alive and clicking down here. I saw numerous stands, with manual typewriters, where a somewhat outdated person was willing to type up a resume or really anything your heart desires. One was right next to an internet cafe. Now....that’s tough sledding.

Every transaction at the hotel is manually processed using a small ledger. Blue ink to signify charges to your account, red ink to signify payments. Who really needs computers anyway ?

Gkori, the gorgeous girl who works at the hotel and helped me to see the funny side of my encounter with the "Three Amigos", showed me the correct technique for using coca leaves. I now look like a professional. I did have the wildest dreams last night. They kept coming in waves. In one dream, I dreamt that I was having a disagreement with a co-worker, kicked out at him, my foot shot out from under the covers, I almost did a 360 and nearly fell out of bed. Thank God the beds have heavy blankets on them. The next 19 days on coca leaves and coca tea should be tons of fun.

Next up........a flight with Lan Peru to Cusco. I am just praying that there are no sheep, llamas or guinea pigs on board. 

August 9^th, 2007 – Later That Day……………..

The Lan Peru flight left on time, we flew over part of the Andes and arrived on time in Cusco. It was amazing. We seemed to be flying just above the mountains. The Ninos Hotel is really nice and I have already had my first coca tea. I can feel a shortness of breath.......I’m 11,000 feet up in the air.
 
I booked a tour of the Sacred Valley for tomorrow, all day for $ 30.00 US including return bus, guide and lunch. I have also booked a two day tour of Machu Picchu (11th & 12th) for $ 200 US plus about another $ 40 for a hotel room. This way, I can visit during the day on the 11th and also be up for the sunrise the next morning. The tour includes pick-up at the hotel, 1st class (I know........backpacker was sold out) return with the Vistadome, lunch, entrance tickets to Machu Picchu, guide and return bus fare up to the top. I have also booked a bus ticket to Puno on the 14th.
 
I am really having a fabulous time. Pedro.....not that Pedro, a new Pedro has booked everything for me and I think this is going to work. I cannot believe that I am in what the Inca’s called ¨The Navel Of The World¨. If that is correct, Vancouver must be the right ear lobe and Tierra Del Fuego (at the tip of South America) must be the.....you know what of the world.......I guess. Cusco is very rustic, I am in the non-tourist part of town staying at a hotel that uses all the money generated from the rooms to feed 500 destitute children so I am a very happy camper. The internet is across the street, 30 cents for an hour but.....then again.....it´s sooooooooooooo slow. 
 
I´m off exploring and then have some more coca tea. It´s free.........at the Ninos Hotel.

August 11^th, 2007

Well I just traveled on the second highest railway in the world (and I have already decided that I will do the highest one to Lhasa, Tibet next year) to Aguas Caliente which is the small town that lies at the foot of Machu Picchu. Pedro (the new one) picked me up at the hotel, provided my train ticket, bus pass to MP and admission. He also secured a nice, modest hotel in Aguas Caliente. The train journey was spectacular, it took 40 minutes to get out of Cuzco because of the steep grade. Seven switchbacks in all. I was met at the train station, checked in, picked up some souvenirs, spent 1 1/2 hours soaking in the famous spa (which is what Aguas Caliente means....Hot Water) and now I am surfing the net.....very slowly. The computers are too slow to do a journal so I am going to write one when I get back. It’s raining in AC and somewhat humid. I have come down from 12,500 feet to 6,000 feet (I love coca tea and coca leaves). Tomorrow, I am getting the early bus to MP. I can’t wait. Yesterday, I did a 10 hour bus tour through the Sacred Valley and visited two impressive Inca sites. Man....they were skilled. The masonry was spectacular. I couldn’t even wedge a credit card between the joins. They also picked the most remote and inaccessible places to build. I have muscles that I didn’t know existed. If I were a Spaniard, I would be truly ashamed of myself, mine you, the same can be said for the British, the French and the Portuguese. The guide told me that none of the ruins were demolished by earthquakes or other natural phenomena, just by the marauding Spaniards.

I really can’t get over Peru. It is nothing like I expected. I don’t like Lima but then again, with a population of 10 million, it’s to be expected. But....it’s so clean. Cusco is so beautiful. I really could live there. It is set in a valley, surrounded by enormous peaks. The fact that Cusco is at 11,500 feet and it is overshadowed by peaks tells you the type of heights we are talking about. It’s also very safe, beautiful architecture and spotless. Peruvians, other than the three that I encountered in Lima, are honest, hard working and so nice. They smile all the time and they aren’t pushy. The children are so beautiful. I can see why the owners of the Ninos Hotel, where I am staying in Cusco, decided to stay and help them. They are just so damn gorgeous. As we traveled to Aguas Caliente, almost across the roof of the earth, I couldn’t believe the how many native Peruvians eke out a living.

There are only two seasons in Cusco, winter and fall. The average temperature is 22 degrees C and it drops down to about 2 degrees at night. Last night, as we drove back to Cusco, the sky was lit up with stars. It was like the lights reflected from a Disco Ball. The air here is so clean and pure. No pollution at all. I did get a decent sunburn on the back of my neck so from now on.......it’s sunscreen all the way.

Anyway, I am having the time of my life. I promise, after this trip, I will never complain about anything because I really am, the luckiest guy on the planet.

I am taking the afternoon train back to Cusco tomorrow so I will let you know what MP is like. I know it will be spectacular and there is more to come. Lake Titicaca, the Uros Floating Islands, Isla Del Sol and Isla De La Luna and La Paz. Pinch me...........I really do think I am dreaming.

August 12^th, 2007

WELL......................HOLY DOODLE........Machu Picchu is everything I hoped it would be and so much more. I got up at 4.45am, caught the bus at 5.25am and arrived at Machu Picchu at 5.50am. We zig-zagged up the mountain in the dark. You couldn’t pay me enough to be a MP Bus Driver. The tour started at 6.15am. It was really foggy but then suddenly, the sun popped it’s head over the mountains and magically the fog cleared to reveal one of the new Seven Wonders of the Modern World. There was Machu Picchu in all it’s glory. I teamed up with Katie, from Santa Rosa, California, who is down here volunteering and we toured the different sites. After the tour, we hiked up Wayni Picchu which is the tall cone shaped mountain right behind Machu Picchu in all the photos. They only allow 400 people to tour it and we got literally the last two tickets. I don’t think I have ever done such a climb in my life and when we reached the very top, Katie wanted to do the more difficult trail to the Grand Caverna which essentially meant that we circumnavigated the mountain. On one section, we had to scale down a 30 foot ladder, I thought I was going to faint. We were both so tired at the end. It took three hours all together and it was hot and humid. The views were stunning. I think I did alright considering she was 29 years younger. I have to admit that there were times when I wanted to give up BUT I didn’t so I was very pleased with myself. The train ride back was a hoot, I sat next to a guy from North Shields in the North-East of England and across from a couple from just outside Pittsburgh. We chatted and laughed all the way back to Cusco. That’s what I love about traveling, seeing absolutely incredible sights and meeting wonderful people. The ¨Three Amigos¨ from Lima are now a distant memory. This morning, I slept in, had a lovely breakfast and downloaded the photos to a cd. This afternoon I am doing another 4 hour tour of the Inca ruins around Cusco. Tomorrow, I travel eight hours by bus to Puno and Lake Titicaca. I thought I would feel really rough today but so far, so good. 

I’d love to send some photos but the computers are so slow. I do, however, have some KILLER SHOTS to share with you when I get back.

I am in awe of Peru, the scenery and the people, really everything. 

August 13^th, 2007

Well.....another brilliant day exploring ancient Inca ruins around Cusco. Tambomachay, Qenco, Saqsaywaman (which is pronounced "Sexy Woman") and also the Church of Santo Domingo and the Cathedral. I am in such awe of the Inca’s, they were so ingenious and it makes any other ruins pale in comparison. I just don’t understand how they managed to build such incredible structures in such remote places. Tambomachay is the highest at just over 12,000 feet. It is a sacred place and revered for it’s sacred waters. In true "Geoff style", I made sure that I washed my face in the waters. I also had the most amazing corn on the cob. The kernels were as big as "Lima Beans" and it was so succulent. I don’t like corn on the cob but I loved this one. Can you imagine making popcorn from these puppies ? Picked up more trinkets............it’s so hard to say no. Besides......I am helping the local economy.

August 14th, 2007

The 12 hour bus ride from Cusco to Puno actually turned out to be a 10 hour tour. We stopped at several archeological sites and also at La Raya which at 14,000 feet is the highest I have ever been outside of an actual aircraft. It suddenly occurred to me that I was 4,000 feet higher than my skydive last year !!!!. So many people were suffering from altitude sickness but I must say, I have experienced few side effects. That's what copious amounts of Coca Tea, Coca Candy and Coca Leaves will do to you. Maybe I'm too stoned to realise it. The landscape reminded me of the Okanogan around Kelowna but with a huge difference. Every now and then, we passed herds of llamas and alpacas and drove through small traditional villages and towns with native Peruvians dressed in their traditional costumes. Interestingly enough, the women make the mens’ clothes and the men make the womens’ clothes. I guess it makes cross-dressing easier. The roads were great until we reached Pukara in the Puno District and suddenly it became the "Shake & Bake" tour. It's quite obvious that Cusco District gets all the money. Juliaca was a disaster. I would have died if I had booked a hotel there. The whole town was a train wreck except for the shiny new University Andina which stuck out like a sore thumb.

I am now in Puno (which is a bit of a nightmare) on the shores of Lake Titicaca and tomorrow, I am doing a whole day boat tour of the famed Uros Floating Islands for a whopping $ 12.00 US. The inhabitants are the oldest indigenous tribe in South America and the inhabitants of the outer islands are renowned for not being entirely friendly to tourists but hey..........what's the worst that can happen. Thank God they aren't cannibals. If they are.....I'm sure I will make a fine soup.

Unbelievably, on the bus from Cusco to Puno, I sat behind (and had lunch with) a couple from Bowen Island. How weird is that ?  

The Hotel Pukara in Puno is............interesting (my room smells somewhat of sewage) but the girl at the reception was so nice and helped me book my next hotel in Copacabana for the outrageous price of $ 10 US a night, including private bath. It comes highly recommended by Lonely Planet so I know I am safe.

On the bus trip, I listened to my MP3 Player and at one point, I was listening to classic Led Zeppelin. It put a whole new meaning to "Stairway To Heaven". I will always associate driving through the Andes when I hear that song.

Life is good.......very good.

August 16^th, 2007

I arrived safely in Copacabana around noon today (Aug 16th) and checked into my hotel. I wanted to tell you all about the most amazing day that I had yesterday, taking a boat tour of Lake Titicaca, but with the tragic news of the 8.00 earthquake, 355 people dead and 1500 missing, it seems so irrelevant. I am fortunate that I am very far away from the tragedy but I could so easily have decided to tour the Peruvian coastline instead of Cusco, Machu Picchu, Uros Islands, Lake Titicaca and La Paz. I think some-one was definitely watching over me but then again, if there is a divine force, why the hell is he or she taking it out on poor innocent people who work harder than you or I will ever work to eke out a living.

Anyway, I arrived in Puno and hooked up with a wonderful French family from just outside Paris. They were staying at the same hotel so I caught a ride to the Hotel Pukara. I also decided to do the same tour of the Uros Islands and Taquille so we had the opportunity to spend the whole day together, the evening and ironically, the same bus from Puno to Copacabana. I just said good-bye to them because they are heading directly to La Paz.

Yesterday started out with breakfast at 6am on the top floor of the hotel. I watched the sunrise over Lake Titicaca and then met Jean-Marc and his family downstairs. We caught a shuttle to the harbour. I must confess, my heart sank. The lake was so brackish. However, as the boat left the harbour and we headed out into the lake, the water cleared and suddenly, the famed Totora reeds emerged. Within about 20 minutes, the legendary Uros Floating Islands appeared and we stopped off at one to hear about how the islands were constructed and how the inhabitants lived. From there, we were given the opportunity to sail, in a totora reed boat, to the next island. It was sooooooooo AMAZING. I just cannot put into words how I felt, being on the famed Lake Titicaca, sailing in a boat whose design dates back centuries. They use the reeds for everything, from providing the basis of the island to food. I, of course, had to try some and I have to say, even as a veg-head, it needed something to spice it up. Interestingly, they aren't really sure how many islands exist because the number constantly changes. There are about 5 families on each island but if one family has a dispute with another, they can essentially cut up the island and join a more friendly group. Quite bizarre......imagine just being able to pick up your house, because you have problems with your neighbours, and move elsewhere. From there, we took a 1 1/2 hour, each way, trip to Taquille Island which is a natural island about 7 km's long in the middle of Lake Titicaca. We met one of the local "Presidents", similar to a mayor and learned about the Taquille culture, had a wonderful meal at his house and then sat back, or so I thought, to watch some traditional dances. The last dance, called the "Inca's Are Coming" required the four dancers, the President, his wife and his children (I think) to pick a partner and I was very lucky to be asked by the President´s wife to join her. Jean-Marc took photos and videotaped the whole thing so..........at some point.........you will be able to see me doing a traditional Taquille dance. It’s amazing what Coca Tea will do to a person. After the festivities, we hiked over the island (more bloody steps) from where the boat had dropped us off to the other port and headed back to Puno with the sun setting on Lake Titicaca. I know I must sound like a stuck record but HOLY.......DOODLE, the bar just got raised into the stratosphere. I have experienced many memorable days traveling but yesterday just about tops everything. I have dreamt about Lake Titicaca (I just love saying it) since I was about 9. I guess dreams can come true if you really want them to. Having Jean-Marc, Marie, Ann-Sophie and Aurore along for the ride, just made it so much better.

This morning involved another early morning........aren’t I supposed to be on holiday, breakfast at 6am, another Titicaca sunrise and a bicycle rickshaw through the streets of Puno to the bus station. The bus left 30 minutes late and took three hours to reach Copacabana which is just over the Bolivian border. I have a room, with a private bath, that overlooks Lake Titicaca for a whopping $ 10 US a night. I am due to be here for five days but I am not sure if there is enough to do. Tomorrow........I am sleeping in. I don't care. The tours of Isla Del Sol and Isla Del Luna start at 8.30am so I think I will do them on Saturday.

Health wise......I have to admit that I have handled the altitude rather well except I have picked up a mild chest infection  which has made sleeping difficult. I haven't experienced the headaches but it constantly feels like some-one is sitting on my chest. Two nights ago, I thought I was going to go crazy because I just could not catch my breath. I started hyperventilating. It´s a little scary because you panic and when you panic........well......it’s just not a good thing. The hotel had run out of oxygen (that must be a first) so I just had to wait it out. Last night was better but with so many early morning tours or requirements to be at bus or train stations, I am so afraid of sleeping in and missing the boat.....or train literally. Still......with what is happening south of Lima, I have no reason to complain.

Anyway, that's it for now. I can't believe I am in Bolivia, another childhood dream, I can't believe I am sitting on the shores of Lake Titicaca and I can't believe that I still have another 11 days to experience South America. It feels like a lifetime since I left Vancouver.

August 18^th, 2007

Well one more day in Copacabana and then tomorrow, one day ahead of schedule, I'm taking the bus to La Paz. You can really see the difference between Peru and Bolivia when you cross the border. On the plus side, your dollars or Bolivianos go a hell of a long way.

Yesterday, I took another boat cruise to Isla Del Sol (also called Rock Of The Puma) and formerly known, during Inca times, as TITI KHARKA which is how the lake was named. It was believed that Isla Del Sol was the birthplace of many important and revered entities including the sun itself. Pretty cool......or hot depending on how you look at it. I only toured the southern part of the island but if you have ever seen pictures of Greek Islands, you will get the picture. More bloody steps.........I don't know how they do it. Women carrying children or supplies on their backs and not even huffing and puffing. Me........gasping for air.

Some interesting facts:

INCA DYNASTY

1. Manco Capac and his sister, who were apparently created by the Sun, rose from Lake Titicaca as divine founders of a chosen race around 1200 AD.

2. Over the next three hundred years, the empire grew to become the largest in the America's, stretching from Northern Chile to the border of Colombia and Ecuador and encompassing the western parts of Bolivia and the northern regions of Argentina. In total, about 980,000 square km's (roughly the size of France, Belgium, Holland, Luxembourg, Italy and Switzerland).

PERU

1. 3rd largest country in South America equal in size to France, Spain and all of the U.K.

2. 49% of the population are poor. 20% are extremely poor.

3. Over 1/3rd of the homes have no electricity or running water.

4. The people are either of QUECHUA or AYMARA decent.

5. 92.5% are Catholic

6. 50% of Peruvians live above 3,000 meters (10,000 feet). 

BOLIVIA

1. Poorest country in South America.

2. 78% Catholic

3. 5th largest country in South America (roughly 3 1/2 times the size of the British Isles).

4. Home of the worlds most dangerous road (from La Paz to COROICO). On average 26 vehicles disappear each year over the edge.

5. The Rio Choqueyapu, which flows under La Paz, is estimated to contain 132,000 gallons of urine, 200,000 tons of human excrement, a million tons of waste (including industrial toxins) and is affectionately called "Rio Choke".

6. Mt Illimani, which rise above the city of La Paz, is 6,402 meters.

7. Cerro Chacaltaya peak, at 5,395 meters, is a day trip away from La Paz and you can actually take a tour up to the peak. At a staggering 17,500 feet, I am going. That's higher than an Everest Base Camp.

So.....................

Tomorrow, I'm off to see the Rio Choke, navigate my way up to 17,500 feet and generally, just have a relaxing time in South America.

Ironically, on the cruise to Isla Del Sol, I met Mark from False Creek in Vancouver. We had dinner last night at the fabulous La Orilla Restaurant. I had a magnificent Lake Titicaca Trout and Coconut Curry for a staggering $ 2.75 US.

August 19^th, 2007

It's siesta time in Copacabana so I thought I would chill out in the local internet cafe.

I can't say that I really like Copacabana. I think Bolivia has totally missed the boat by not developing this amazing place, especially considering the stunning topography. This could be the "Bolivian Riviera" but instead the shoreline is full of amphibian crafts that resemble Disney characters and if you look hard enough, raw sewage. Considering Bolivia is landlocked, after losing territory to Chile that linked them to the Pacific Ocean, I think they could have tried harder to make Copacabana so much more than it is at the moment.

The town is also full of North American and European "Hippies" in their late teens and early 20 making handicrafts and trying to sell them to the tourists. I watched a girl from Toronto yesterday making bracelets. In the poorest country in South America, where do these guys get off stealing valuable Bolivanos from the locals. I refuse to buy any souvenirs here because I really don't know if they were made by locals or not. Yesterday on the 4 1/2 hour boat cruise to Isla Del Sol which cost 15 Bolivanos (there are 8 to a U.S Dollar), an American, probably in his early 20's, an English guy and his Chilean girlfriend or wife, argued with the tour operator because he was asking for an additional 5 Bolivanos to visit an Inca site. I couldn't help wondering if they behaved this way when buying an overpriced $ 5.00 cup of Starbucks coffee that probably cost about 35 cents to produce. The gas alone must have cost a fortune. I was so pissed off, I went outside because if not, I would probably have thrown the miserable SOB's into the water. I know......not very Buddhist but still. O.K......so I never did find the Inca ruins but then again, I had paid about 60 cents for the ticket.

The Titicaca Cruise boat was dubious to say the least. When I toured Lake Titicaca in Puno, the guide was very specific about how many were on board and especially how many were on the top deck. Titicaca Cruises did not seem to mind and I had to wonder if they had ever had any problems. I didn't see a life jacket anywhere and the captain stirred the boat with his foot and only once looked where he was going. I really wanted to take a photo but every time I set the camera up, he looked my way. On the way out of the harbour, we had to check in with the Bolivian Navy. I don't think they own a boat........but they still proudly display a sign "Armada De Bolivia".

Today there was a strange ceremony outside the Cathedral that involved tons of cars. From what I could gather, the priests were blessing the cars because everyone was decked out in flowers and the priest was splashing "Holy Water" on the engines. Quite bizarre. There were copious amounts of beer flowing and everyone seemed in a festive mood. I guess it's just part of the unique culture.

August 19th & 20th

Well the bus from Copacabana to La Paz must have been run by the same company that operated the Titicaca Cruise. I had checked a lot of the buses, as they came and went, and one thing struck me more than anything else. Shouldn't tires have treads on them......isn't this a fundamental requirement. The second thing that struck me, about Bolivian buses, was the fact that none would ever, in a million years, pass air care. Still, there is a certain romance to seeing clouds of black smoke billowing from the exhausts of buses that reached their prime 20 years ago. Undeterred, I boarded the bus at 10am and sat in front of James from Hollywood. We chatted most of the way and then we reached the part that I had been forewarned about. Unfortunately, preventing the road from Copacabana from connecting to the road to La Paz is a fairly large stretch of Lake Titicaca. Still......these crafty Bolivians had a plan. Why not get everybody off the bus and float it across the inlet on barges that looked more ancient than the buses. The passengers were taken across on an armada of small motorboats. I have to admit for my 20 Bolivianos, a four hour bus ride and a boat ride were good value for my money. When we got to the other side, James and I panicked a little because we couldn't find our bus. Being a Buddhist, I shouldn't be attached to things but the fact that all my luggage was sitting on the top of the bus and we couldn't find it alarmed us just a bit. Anyway, we found our bus and continued on our merry way to La Paz. The road was not as treacherous as I had imagined, hence, the reasoning behind bald tires. I had been told that the first views of La Paz are awe inspiring. Well, maybe if you are riding on a tourist bus and you enter the city from a different direction. We had the privilege of going through the bad part of town. I have to admit that when we finally got to the awe inspiring viewpoint it was amazing but La Paz overall is disappointing. Geographically, it is amazing with Mount Illimani, at 6,458 meters, dominating the city and the houses built up on either side of the valley. If an earthquake ever hit La Paz, it would be game over because most of the houses cling precariously to the sides of the mountain. It's noisy, dirty, crowded and full of beggars and shoeshine boys who wear ski masks because of the stigma attached to cleaning shoes.

I met up again with Manuela (who I thought was Spanish, she thought I was Brazilian but it turns out she's actually Swiss) and we had dinner. This is the fourth place, throughout this trip, that our paths have crossed. She told me that she was going to do the "Death Road" on a mountain bike and asked me if I would like to come along. I declined but we did agree that La Paz was not our kind of city and that on Tuesday (August 21st), we would take the 12 hour night bus to Uyuni and the famed Salar De Uyuni which is the largest Salt Desert in the world for a three day and two night extreme tour. Yesterday, while she was risking life and limb, I decided to go to Chacaltaya Mountain, which she had done the previous day.

CHACALTAYA MOUNTAIN

Well I was really chuffed with myself. I took a private tour of Chachataya Mountain with a guide and a driver. The driver dropped us off at 4,000 meters (roughly 14,000 feet) and we hiked up to the top, which is at a staggering 5,580 meters (over 18,300 feet). That is actually 240 meters higher than the Mount Everest Base Camp. To be honest, I thought we were just getting out to take a picture. Manuela had told me that the bus took them up to 5,400 meters and they hiked the final 100 meters. Consequently, I left my water bottle and lunch in the van. By the time I realised what was happening, the mini van was long gone. It was the most debilitating thing I have ever done. Everything hurt, my lungs, my head and my legs BUT I did it. Although it cost $ 88 U.S dollars, it was worth it. The views were amazing and I got to chat to Mabel, the guide, one on one, and learn more about Bolivia. She told me that a teacher earns about $ 80 U.S a month. Think about it...............

When I got back, I was shattered. It took one and a half hours, each way, to get to the mountain and the road was BAD. It's was a dirt road, no wider than 3 meters, with no guard rails and a sheer drop on one side. It was the ultimate "Shake, Rattle and Roll" adventure tour.

Last night, I met up with Mark, from Vancouver, for dinner and found out that the son of one of his friends, an experienced climber, slide down the mountain and died a couple of years ago. I can understand why. The mountain is covered with loose shale and it's certainly not for the faint of heart.

So.....I'm off to Salar De Uyuni for three days and I doubt that I will have any internet access (LOL). So........if I am out of contact for a few days, that is why.

August 25^th, 2007

We are back in Uyuni having just done the three day, two night tour of the Salar De Uyuni. 

What can I say........the most incredible scenery you could possibly imagine including the largest salt desert, lagoons full of flamingoes (at 14,000 ft), volcanoes, geysers, hot springs, in fact you name it, we probably saw it BUT do we really need to put ourselves through hell to see it. Once again, I seem to have outdone myself. This tour is definitely not for the faint of heart and I think my heart is starting to become a tad faint.

We left La Paz at 7pm on Tuesday and arrived in Uyuni 16 hours later. The bus left on time but at around 2.30am, it stopped. The unofficial word........ a blockade by some small town or village. No-one really knows why but some were saying it had to do with miners or mining rights. We sat in the freezing cold for two hours while the drivers tried to figure out what to do. Finally, they decided to take off across the fields to try and bypass the town. It was hellish. We finally got into Uyuni around 11am, totally beat. I was so hungry and dehydrated. Fortunately, Manuela was there because otherwise, I would have been in serious trouble. I just could not keep anything down, including Gatorade. I felt awful. 

She had booked through Oasis Tours and while I have to say the jeep was far better than I had expected, it was still far too many hours in the car over three days. They had forgotten that we were vegetarians so the meals were less than adequate and the accommodation was...............basic to say the least. I don’t think I have ever stayed in such threadbare lodgings in my life. Forget stars..........these places woudn’t even register a decimal star. It was sooooooooo cold. You can’t imagine what it is like at 15,000 feet with no heat. Body parts just drop off.......it’s insane.

I love nature and Bolivia has it by the bagful but surely, they could make it a little easier.

We finally booked a twin room at YHA Hostel for five hours to have a shower and change. Our train leaves for Oruro at midnight and then we will catch a bus back to La Paz. I told Manu that she would have to kill me to get back on that bus again.

I fly back to Lima on Monday morning, Lan Peru changed the day of the flight without telling anyone so I have only about 14 hours in Lima. The flight back to Canada looks iffy but miracles can happen. I’ll keep you posted.

Anyway, one final note, if any of you are wondering about my travel companion. I lucked out, we share absolutely everything in common except one thing.......

She’s a truly lovely………lesbian. Who would have guessed.........................

August 26^th, 2007

Well we are finally back in La Paz. Yesterday was a marathon day, beginning at 5am and ending around 11am this morning. 23 1/2 hours of traveling in a 30 hour period. True to Bolivian fashion, the train totally amazed both of us. Based on the bus experience, I was expecting the worst but it turned out to be the exact opposite. Admittedly, the train did leave 30 minutes late (12.18am) and did stop ominously for about 20 minutes, shortly after leaving the station, but it was worth it. Almost immediately, they served coca tea in an assortment of chipped and cracked coffee mugs, biscuits in cute little carrier bags and dished out blankets and pillows even though they had turned on the heat. The toilets, which have become a running joke during the trip, were spotless. We not only got a toilet seat (which in Bolivia seems to be a precious commodity) but also hand soap and paper towels. A rare treat indeed. We arrived in Oruro 30 minutes late and quickly grabbed a taxi to the bus station. The bus to La Paz was decent, made by Mecedes-Benz and although it didn't have any toilet facilities, it was far better than the bus to Uyuni. Almost immediately, they started to show the movie APOCALYPTO which was produced and directed by Mel Gibson (not one of my favourite people). I could not believe the choice of film considering there were children on board and at 7.30 in the morning. Crazy. If you've seen it, you know what I mean. Talk about poor taste. If you haven't seen the movie, don't bother. Mel doesn't need anymore money unless of course, he is planning on slagging off other ethnic groups, in a drunken stupor, and needs the money for legal fees. The bus took three hours so all in all, it was a much better way to get back to La Paz.

Tomorrow, I have an early flight back to Lima and then........who knows. I really can't think of any trip that even comes close to this one, in terms of places visited and miles covered but it has taken it's toll. Big time. I can't wait to weight myself. I have never been more exhausted in my life. You can't call a trip to Bolivia a holiday because everything in this country is a struggle. The sad thing is, I can't see things improving because under Evo Morales, an ally of Chavez and Castro, foreign investors are being scared off. Morales wants to nationalize everything and while, in principal, that may be good, in reality, they don't have the financial resources to pull it off. It's such a poor country and to compound matters, it's situated in one of the harshest environments in the world. You can see it on the faces of the native Bolivians. Guessing a persons age is a total crapshoot because the climate prematurely ages people. Since arriving in Cusco, my lips have constantly bled and my skin feels like old shoe leather. I have become a big fan of NIVEA Skin Lotion. It's a necessity.

I also forgot to mention Isla De Pescado (not really sure of the spelling but it means Island Of The Fish) which we visited on Day One of the Salar De Uyuni Tour. Set in the middle of the Salt Desert, the island is covered with enormous cactus, some as old as 1200 years. It was the strangest thing........cactus, on a island, seemingly surrounded by snow with a brilliant blue Andean Sky. Talk about a mirage. Totally crazy.

Anyway, I’m off to pick up my laundry. I can't wait to wear clean clothes. I have sand and salt EVERYWHERE.

August 27^th, 2007

Well I am now back in Lima at La Posada Del Parque killing time, waiting hopefully for my return flight tonight at 1.25am.

The flight from La Paz left on time and was fabulous. We flew right over Lake Titicaca and I have to say, Lan Airlines really lived up to their reputation. They really are one of the better airlines.

I was in seventh heaven when I got on the plane.......why........OXYGEN and loads of it being pumped around the plane. I never thought I would live to appreciate aircraft air quality. Getting back to sea level was also a real plus. It's strange how you take things for granted. Pedro, the tour guide who arranged everything in Cusco, said that people born in higher altitudes develop larger lungs, people born at sea level, smaller ones. It makes sense........ I can tell you that my tiny lungs are in heaven at the moment, smog or no smog.

I spent the afternoon in Miraflores, which is the ritzy part of Lima. I wanted to dip my feet in the Pacific Ocean. I walked for miles trying to find a way down to the lower road and the rocky beach. Finally, after walking for an eternity, I found a way down. No-one said South America was easy. As I walked along the rocky shoreline, I bumped into the girl who was sitting behind me on the plane this morning......it's a small world. I decided this time just to acknowledge her and walk on. Knowing my luck, she would have turned out to be a fella. The Pacific Ocean granted me my wish. A rogue wave soaked me from the knees down and I spent the rest of the afternoon looking a little bedraggled. I wanted to have a really nice lunch so I picked a restaurant based solely on the fact that they served Creme Caramel. In typical South American fashion, when it came time to order desert, I was told that they didn't have any but I could have peaches (I'm assuming canned) in juice. Deflated but not totally demoralized, I headed down the street and found a lovely cafe called Cafe De La Paz. They advertised a typical Peruvian desert that consisted of a tarte lemon base and a meringue top. WOW.........Lemon Meringue Pie in a parfait dish. How original. Still, it's my favourite desert so I decided to splurge. Again, in typical South American fashion, the desert looked like Lemon Meringue Pie without the LEMON !!!!!!! There was nothing tarte about this desert......... in fact, if any lemon had ever come within a hundred miles of this desert, I'd be surprised.

So..........that's it..............

Another adventure crossed off my list. I have mixed feelings about Peru and Bolivia. Just when you think you have it all worked out, it turns around and bites you in the ass. I have never seen such incredible scenery, been blown away by the tenacity of the people, the history, the culture and the hardships they endure every minute of their lives. I also really don't think I have ever experienced such highs (literally) and lows in my life. It's so hard to put into words. Hopefully, when I get back and look at all the pictures, it will all make sense. At the moment, I'm more confused than ever.

Tonight, I'm praying that the travel gods will smile on me and I will make the standby flight. If not I will try to fly to Buenos Aires, via Santiago, Chile tomorrow morning and then try to pick up the Air Canada flight that leaves Buenos Aires, connects in Santiago and then carries on to Toronto later in the day. If that doesn't work.........please send MONEY and WARM CLOTHES.

August 29^th, 2007

Well for those of you who missed it.....I couldn't get on the flight from Lima to Toronto (even though the computer said there were available seats) and ended up spending the night at the Jorge Chavez International Airport. The flights from Lima were booked solid for the next week (I actually ran into a poor chap, with his wife and two young children, who had been stranded in Lima for a week trying to get out) so I decided to take the situation into my own hands and book a flight from Lima to Buenos Aires, Argentina via Santiago, Chile. The load capacities flying out of Buenos Aires are lighter at this time of the year (Peru is so popular because of all the major Inca attractions) and so it looked like a better proposition. Having purchased my one-way ticket, I suddenly realised that I had always wanted to see Buenos Aires (I was planning to fly there next year) so I quickly researched some inexpensive hotels and decided to stay there for four days.

In the last week, I have done three all-nighters so I think, it was a good idea to re-charge my batteries and soak up some more South American culture.

BUENOS AIRES - ARGENTINA

The Lan flight left on time and we flew down the western coast of South America to Santiago, Chile. The Andes on one side, the Pacific Ocean on the other and a tiny strip of land in between. I have always wanted to visit Chile but unfortunately, one hour in the Santiago Airport doesn't really qualify......or does it ?. The flight to Buenos Aires left on time and we then headed east across the Andes. I suddenly realised that I was about a three hour flight from Antarctica.......damn.

They say that Buenos Aires is more European than Europe. I would have to agree. Driving into the city from the airport, I would never have guessed that I was in South America. North America maybe, Europe perhaps but not South America. The difference between Bolivia and Argentina is night and day.

THE OLD ENEMY

The conflicts between England and Argentina go far back. I remember watching England knock Argentina out of the 1966 World Cup in the quarter finals when Rattin (what a strange name for a person) was sent off. It was a pretty intense affair. In 1982 Argentina, for some strange reason, decided to invade the Falklands Islands. Maggie Thatcher took exception to it, I thought I might be called up and finally, after sinking the HMS Belgrano, England won. In 1986,  the rivalry continued with Argentina knocking England out of the World Cup when the infamous Diego Maradona handled the ball (he called it the "Hand Of God"), scored and beat England 2 -1. In 1998, they met again and this time, Simeone fooled the ref and Becks got sent off. We lost 4 - 3 on penalties.

So.....................

To make a long story short, I decided not to wear my "SHEEP SHAGGIN ON THE FALKLANDS" t-shirt or my "DIEGO MARADONA SUCKS" t-shirt upon my arrival in Patagonia.

CASA MONTSERRAT

I finally figured out that the "4 Star" rating is based on visitor surveys based on cleanliness, location etc etc. It's a old house, in what was the first "Porteno" neighbourhood and it's truly funky. Yesterday, after being up for 37 hours, I perhaps didn't realise it but this morning, it was evident in spades. My room, at $ 35 US a night is above the kitchen, it's small but cute. I think it must have been the maids quarters. The shower works, there is unlimited hot water and I slept like a baby for 13 hours. This morning, they served a fabulous breakfast in the big kitchen and feeling fully revitalized, I decided to venture forth and see this great city. For the record, Buenos Aires is the 10th most populated urban area in the world. It boasts the widest street and benefits from a mild year round climate (average temps 18 degrees Celsius).

AVIENDA 9 DE JULIO

Well, as I write this e-mail, I am on the widest street in the world. Technically.......I'm in an internet cafe. I think however, that I am going to challenge this claim because it is actually three streets combined into one. I had heard horror stories about people having to sprint across 22 lanes of traffic but in reality, you can stop, for a breather, as you cross each of the three streets. I would not know that I am in South America. The people look and behave differently, the shops look different and the streets look more European. I'm not sure that I would want to spend two weeks in a city (let alone the 10th most populated) but four days works for me. I knew this trip would be an epic one and so far, it has lived up to its’ expectations. Argentina is now the fourth South American country that I have landed in and the 35th country that I have visited so far in this lifetime. I'm off to explore the city, have a nice lunch and soak up the culture. I have always loved the name "BUENOS AIRES" and since it is home to the TANGO, I might just pluck up enough courage to give it a try.

August 29th.......later.

Well I have spent the day surrounded by dark eyed, raven haired beauties (the girls aren't too shabby either) in a city that reminds me so much of Paris. It is teaming with people (much like London) and it is such a vibrant place. Everywhere you go, there seems to be music. The "Tango" is very big here and I have decided to go to La Bolsa Restaurante - Parrilla tomorrow night because they have a free Tango show. Hopefully, the El Presidente's wife from Taquille Island in Lake Titicaca will be a no show and I will be spared the humiliation of being dragged onto the dance floor. Still........there could be worse ways to go, wrapped around the nimble body of a mad Argentine woman.

Prices here are slightly higher than Peru which makes it so affordable. I just had a French baguette, stuffed with cheese for $ 6.00 pesos (there are 2.77 to a U.S Dollar), followed by a deluxe creme caramel with all the trimmings ($ 7.50 pesos) and a cup of tea ($ 3.00 pesos). Not bad...........considering what I pay at Trees (LOL). The restaurant also had four specialty pizza's. The Pink Floyd, The John Lennon, The Rolling Stones and unbelievably........The Phill Collins (with two l's). I think the last one is made entirely of sugar. I also watched a guy singing opera outside a MacDonalds and listened to a protest (I haven't a clue what he was saying but applauded anyway) while being watched by riot police and a very ominous looking armed vehicle complete with two very impressive water cannons. Again.......I was glad that I had left my "Falklands" t-shirt at home. I also now understand the significance of Avenida 9 De Julio. The 9th of July is Argentina's Independence Day. It's also an impressive street.......the central portion consisting of 14 lanes with another 4 on either side. So I take back any disparaging remarks that I may have made earlier. Just for the record, there are 65 white lines on the pedestrian crossing.

Tomorrow, I want to try and find the Evita Museum and also visit the cemetery where she is buried. I'm not a "Peronist", in fact I'm not really sure what one is but I do love the song "Don't Cry For Me Argentina" so I think that is reason enough to visit her final resting place. I also think it will be rather cool. I want to do one or two museums because to be honest, all this walking around is making me crazy. Still.........I haven't had to navigate a hill in the last three days and even though the city is full of cars, I still think there is an abundance of oxygen. Tomorrow, I might even try the infamous Buenos Aires metro......apparently, it's not very nice.

August 29th........later still.

Well I just had a fabulous dinner at El Gaucho. Home-made ravioli with pesto sauce, a bottle of Quilmes Beer and fresh bread for a whopping $ 27.00 pesos (about $ 8.00). I could only finish 3/4's of it. In Argentina......everything is big except their chocolate bars which are miniature in size. I just don't get it.........why downsize a chocolate bar. I also passed earlier today a restaurant that would warm the cockles of any carnivore. Sitting in the front window was an open fire surrounded by dead calf carcasses. It looked like a macabre version of "Ring Around The Roses". I passed by a few minutes ago and the meat is literally falling off the bones. Quite the sight. I also checked out flights to Montevideo (Uruguay), which is just across the River Plate from Buenos Aires. American Airlines offers a return ticket (it takes 45 minutes) for $ 175 US. I could fly there and back the same day but I am not sure if it is worth it for four hours in Montevideo. For some strange reason, I have always loved the name Uruguay and been fascinated by Montevideo. Oh well........maybe next time.

August 30th.

Well the metro was everything that Andrea at Casa Monserrat said it would be and more. Dirty but cheap. Tickets cost .70 pesos (roughly 27 cents) and you can ride for as long as you like provided you stay in the subterranean depths of Buenos Aires. I got lost last night on the way home but found my bearing this morning and eventually found the burial site of Eva Peron. The Cemetery De Recoleta is situated in a built up area, surrounded by high rises, and it was very strange to walk around it. I met two ladies from the U.S who were also trying to find her final resting place (we both had maps and both hadn't a clue where it was) and they commented that the cemetery resembled a small town with streets lined with row houses (tombs). It was weird looking through the glass doors and seeing her casket. Please....... when I snuff it, cremate me, it's just too freaky otherwise. Apparently next year, they are planning on moving her to the Peron Family Mausoleum where her husband is buried about 70 km's away.

Later that day...........

Well I found the Evita Museum and the zoo. Interestingly enough, the zoo cost $ 6.75 pesos, the Evita Museum $ 10.00 pesos and an ice cream at the zoo $ 5.75 pesos. Mind you....for $ 6.75 pesos, you don't get much. It's a small zoo. I was worried at first because there seemed to be more zookeepers than animals but eventually, the numbers equaled out. It was funny seeing flamingoes, llamas and alpacas in the zoo. I saw them in the wild, which is so much cooler. The Evita Museum was good but with the exception of a few laminated sheets, all the signage was in Spanish. I didn't realise that she died so young....33 years old. I think, in a way, Princess Diana was our Eva Peron. They say that she was a Nazi sympathizer but no-one knows for sure. It's just part of the legend I guess.  

SOME INTERESTING FACTS ABOUT EVA PERONS' BODY (SKIP IT IF YOU LIKE)

Shortly after her death, plans were made to construct a monument in Evita's honor. The monument, which was to be a statue of a man representing the "Descamisados", was projected to be larger than the Statue of Liberty. Evita's body was to be stored in the base of the monument and, in the tradition of Lenin's corpse, to be displayed for the public. Before the monument to Evita was completed, Juan Perón was overthrown in a military coup, the Revolución Libertadora, in 1955. Perón hastily fled the country and did not make arrangements to secure Evita's body.

A military dictatorship took power in Argentina. The new authorities removed Evita's body from display and its whereabouts remained a mystery for 16 years. From 1955 until 1971, the military dictatorship of Argentina issued a ban on Peronism. It became illegal not only to possess pictures of Juan and Eva Perón even in one's home, but to even speak their names. After sixteen years, the military finally revealed the location of Evita's body. It had been buried in a crypt in Milan, Italy, under the name "María Maggi".  

In 1971, Evita's body was exhumed and flown to Spain, where Juan Perón maintained the corpse in his home. In 1973, Juan Perón came out of exile and returned to Argentina, where he became president for the third time. Perón died in office in 1974. Isabel Perón, who had been elected vice-president, thus became the first female president in the world. It was Isabel who had Evita's body returned to Argentina and (briefly) displayed beside Juan Perón's. The body was later buried in the Duarte family tomb in La Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires.

You see.......there's a lot to be said for cremation.

Later still..........

Well I am in two minds as to what to do. Go to see the free show at La Bolsa or just watch very talented dancers on Florida Street. Personally, I find the music a bit depressing but...........man would I love to be able to dance like that. Makes Fred and Ginger look positively "B-League". The couple I watched, were literally attached at the.........hips. There's definitely something very sexy about a woman in a short black dress, black fish-net stockings and stiletto heels. Actually, he looked pretty good too.

Still later.........

Well I decided to go to La Bolsa and I am really glad that I did. The food was decent (I paid about $ 30 US for a three course meal including coffee and water) but the dancers were amazing. I think.....when I grow up......I'd like to be a Tango Dancer. The dance moves, the costumes, the music.......it was really fabulous and I have to admit, that several times, I had to pinch myself to ensure that I wasn't dreaming. I mean, in Buenos Aires, in a "House Of Carnivores", listening to a really good singer (he was in his 60's, wore a black tuxedo and sold me a cd...........apparently Volume 18 !!!!!!!!!) and watching two of the sexiest women I have ever met, sliding effortlessly across the dance floor. As a finale, the two men danced together, complete with twirls and I thought, in such a macho society, that it was really pretty cool.

BUDDHISM 101 meets VISA

Well I am ashamed to say it but I lost it last night with some poor unsuspecting Visa representative in the Home Trust Fraud Department. I realise that in the space of 48 hours, I tried to use my Visa card four times, in four different countries but isn't that what travelers do ? In La Paz, I purchased a room for $ 40 US, in Lima, a plane ticket for $ 429 US, in Santiago, I tried and failed to buy two shot glasses for $ 12 US and last night, I couldn't even pay for the meal at La Bolsa on my credit card. I knew something was amiss. So.......I decided to call them. Yes.....they had flagged my account, yes.....they did find it unusual that I had tried to make purchases in four different countries within a 48 hour time period. Maybe it was all the tango dancing that had me hot under the collar but I am afraid to say that I was severely guilty of using a run-on sentence made up entirely of one four letter expletive. He insisted that they had tried to call me.......hello........I'm on holiday...........and promised to resolve the matter post haste. I felt bad afterwards but hell........try being miles away from home and have your cash supply cut off. Using debit cards down here is a joke. Last night, I could only get 100 pesos (about $ 30 dollars out of my account and I was charged a $ 5 service charge). Shades of Thomas Cooke two years ago. Did I mention at all that I hate financial institutions ? Still it could have been worse.......he could have been an old man working at a Laundromat (sorry Liz, I couldn't resist).

Back to Buenos Aires........

The plus side......

It's a very safe city, I have never felt threatened, people approach you to try and sell you things but they back off right away. The food is good and the prices are very reasonable. The metro is cheap and most of the tourist attractions cost far less than anywhere else in the world.

The down side.......

There is a homeless problem here. On 9 de Julio at night, there are not just homeless men and women but whole families living on the street. Watch where you step because the sidewalks are in disrepair and you are more than likely to step in dog crap (just like Paris). Unbelievably, the metro shuts down at 10pm.......hell......Argentines don't get going until at least 11pm. It's crazy and I thought Vancouver was a joke when it came to public transport.

Tomorrow........

Another encounter with the "Travel Gods". It's looking good but then again, Lima looked good as well. If I don't make this flight, I think I will just stay here until I get another one. It's not such a bad place to get stuck. I might even take up Tango lessons or better still, meet a gorgeous girl who will teach me to Tango. Things could be worse.

September 1^st, 2007

Well although I don't have an assigned seat, I have been assured 99.99999% that I will make the flight from Buenos Aires to Santiago and then onto Toronto. It's a long flight (about 14 hours all together) so I hope to god that I get an aisle seat. I also have a box of 60 sleeping pills (I couldn't buy any less) so.......... this will be one flight that I doubt I will remember.

I am really sad to leave Argentina. I really have had a wonderful time. One thing that has surprised me the most.....the people. They are kind, charming and very European. Next time I come down to BA, I'm off to Patagonia, the scenery looks amazing and I'd love to see a penguin in the wild. It might help me get over my traumatic times at the Irish Covenant School in England !!!!!!!!!

September 2^nd, 2007

Well that’s it, another great adventure, another fabulous experience, another trip crossed off my “List Of Things To Do Before I Expire”. Now……………..where do I go next ?