INDIA & GERMANY 2007
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Greetings
from Beijing.......at least I think I am in Beijing. It's difficult to
tell because the entire city is shrouded in smog. I had wanted to get a
picture of the city as we were landing but unfortunately, I didn't see the
ground until we were about 200 feet above it. Bring on the
Olympics............I doubt anyone could do the 100 millimeters dash, let
alone the 100 meters.
Apologies
for the mass e-mail but I am at an "Internet Bar", no-one speaks
English, I think the hotel driver is coming back in an hour and I have no
idea how much time I have got. It's all very bizarre.
Where
to begin..........well, not wanting to diss Air Canada but they made me
sweat. I knew the flight was only 2/3rd full but the check-in girl made me
go through the express check-in, which duly issued me a
"Standby" pass so my hopes of checking in my luggage disappeared
in a split second. As the last passengers were boarding the plane, they
called my number. At least I got a window and aisle seat to myself.
I
have to say I was disappointed with the plane. The essentials seemed to be
there, you know, wings and things but no personal entertainment centre
(Virgin Atlantic have spoiled me forever) and the selection of movies was
bleak (Oceans 13 again, Hooked On You and Harry Potter). The latter I
actually enjoyed immensely.
They
served two meals and one snack and you guessed it.......not one was a
vegetarian option. The flight attendant duly informed me that I should
have advised the airline well in advance, I duly informed her that I was
flying standby and she just looked blank. For Meal #1, the options were
Beef and Rice or Chicken and Rice. Another flight attendant did take pity
on me and gave me a salad from 1st Class. At least I didn't starve. Meal
#2, looked suspiciously like Meal #1 but was billed Rice and Beef or Rice
and Chicken. It fooled the chap sitting diagonally from me, plus he must
have known the flight attendant because he wolfed down three dinners each
time complete with annoying slurping sound effects. I have noticed that
the Chinese love to fidget, they never sit still. It drove me mad. On top
of that, even though the flight left at 12.35pm, within two hours, they
all decided to sleep. It was very weird. I was bright eyed and bushy
tailed and they were snoring up a storm. The "Three Dinners" guy
also took it upon himself to be the "Toilet" tour guide.
Honestly, it's not that hard to open a toilet door but every time a
passenger failed to grasp the concept, he shot up and gave them the
"Tour De Force". He also stole the Air Canada Plastic Cutlery
which I thought was very crass. I wonder if he declared them at customs.
The
flight arrived on time and I went through customs with a smile and a wave.
Fortunately, I had decided not to buy the latest offering from the Dalai
Lama at the Virgin Bookstore in the Vancouver Airport, mainly because they
refused to sell it at the U.S price. I'm glad they did because on the
customs form, there were warnings about bringing anything into The
People's Republic Of China, that could damage the cultural, political or
moral culture of the country. Gramophone records were also mentioned.
Thank God I left my collection at home. They also mentioned that opium,
morphine, heroin and marijuana were not welcome but strangely enough, they
were listed these banned substances after the notation about gramophone
records. Very odd.
I
booked a hotel for the night, supposedly close to the airport but to be
honest, if this hotel is close, I would hate to see one that is far away.
Mind you.....with all the smog (the worst I have ever seen, anywhere in
the world), we could have been going around in circles. The reception
girls were nice, all five of them, and although they barely spoke any
English, they all seemed genuinely concerned about my well being.
Unfortunately, the hotel is like a war zone, with construction on every
floor (the girl at the airport never mentioned that) so I doubt I will get
a wink of sleep. I am not sure why you would choose to renovate every
floor at the same time but hey....this is China, the Olympics are coming
and time is running out. I am also heeding the warning. In China,
if you complain about anything, they shoot you. I love the hotel........no
honestly.
So........in
reality, I'm glad that I am off to Delhi tomorrow, via Kuala Lumpur. My
lungs feel like I have smoked for decades and I haven't even been in
Beijing for more than two hours. Another 12 hour flight tomorrow (broken
up by a 3 hour layover in Kuala Lumpur) so it will be another long day. On
the 8th, I have a 5 hour train journey to Haridwar, plus the pleasure of
fighting the crowds at the Delhi Train Station during Diwali. Boy.....I
sure know how to plan things.
Anyway,
I have no idea how to get back to the hotel but I am sure, one way or
another, I will find a way.
November
8th, 2007
Well,
I finally arrived at the orphanage about 12.30pm today, a good six hour
flight from Kuala Lumpur to Delhi, hotel pick up at the airport last night
and then a taxi to the train station at 5.45am this morning to catch the
train to Haridwar, which amazingly left on time and arrived on time.
Sorry for the brief e-mail but it's hard to type and peddle at the same
time. The internet connection is so slow. In fact, the last person to use
it was a guy called "Moses". Did you know, he originally
had eleven commandments but decided to scrap the "Thou Shall Not
Work" for some strange reason......damn.
The long haul was worth it. A big hug from my little friend Sonya and
another big squeeze from Deepak. The two naughtiest children seem to have
gravitated towards me again.......go figure. Anyway, I am exhausted from
playing frisbee football but I am in heaven. It's so unbelievable to see
the children once again. I think I surprised them by coming
back......people say they will but rarely do so they start to lose faith.
Anyway, I just want you to know I am safe and I am thinking about you all.
November
10th, 2007
Sorry
again for the mass e-mail but the dial up internet access at the orphanage
is slower than molasses. It took me almost an hour yesterday morning to
open and read four e-mails. Yahoo seems to be the worst to
open....typical.
The children have spent the last couple of days decorating the orphanage
for Little Diwali (which was on the 8th) and Big Diwali last night.
Definition of
"Bedlam".......
Combine 64 overly excited children and a barrel full of fireworks. I am
amazed no-one got hurt. It was chaos with a capital "C". Thank
God alcohol wasn't involved although I am sure in certain parts of India
it was, in copious amounts. I now know what it must be like to live in a
war zone because one of the larger rockets, fell over upon ignition and
rained down on everyone. People were running everywhere. I thought we were
being attacked !!!!!! Pakistan is, after all, our closest neighbour. I
also experienced another errant firework, that spun around on the ground
and then suddenly raced, almost the entire length of the courtyard, in my
direction. I adore India and Indians but I have to admit that when it
comes to making fireworks, I am not supremely confident in their
abilities. I just don't think they a sophisticated hiring or training
program. Fortunately, I was paying attention and managed to jump over it
as it shot through my legs and continued on to Delhi. I have never been
"Nutmegged" by a firework before. I am not sure how I would have
explained that one to emergency although I am sure, in India, they have
heard everything. A quick "Inventory" taken and everything seems
to be intact.....yikes! Everyone said afterwards that they were sure I
would get out of the way. I think....in hindsight.......I became the
proverbial "Deer caught in the headlights".
Today, we have been celebrating "Goverdhan Puja" which involves
all the girls building an image of Krishna using........you guessed
it......cow dung. Don't laugh.....I'm serious, if you don't believe me,
check out the link:
http://www.diwalifestival.org/goverdhan-puja.html
After that, we blessed the cows which seemed to confuse the hell out of
the poor creatures. Cows eat grass and hay, they don't eat sweets.
Tomorrows’ milk should have an extra zing to it.
It's all really quite amazing and I feel very privileged to be a part of
all the festivities. They do seem somewhat alien to me and in reality,
no-one really seems to understand exactly why they are doing it (well at
least it seems that way because if you talk to three different people, you
will get three different versions) but hey......it's India so who really
cares.
I spent most of the day in Haridwar. John, Irene and I caught a bus into
town (for a whopping 25 cents) and had a quick bite at The Big Ben
Restaurant. They then went off to do their errands and I puttered around
buying two pairs of pajamas (the white pants that Indians wear with their
kurtas) and trying to find a bank that was open. At $ 4.00 a pair, I think
I got a steal. It's just too hot to wear jeans......oh sorry.....it's
probably cold where you are right now (LOL). I then got lost.......sort
of. It's actually hard to get totally lost in Hardiwar because of the
Ganges River. I love the place, it's so spiritual. It's also full of
little side roads that have just about anything your heart desires. The
problem is......you tend to get caught up in it all and then suddenly
realise, like a maze, that you haven't a clue where you are because, in
reality, every shop looks the same. There's just no point of reference.
Still, I finally found my way out of the maze and caught a vickram back to
the orphanage. It was somewhat odd because although I paid for a private
vickram, he proceeded to pick up other passengers. Oh well.........I think
I can afford to subsidize the locals.
I am planning on leaving the orphanage around the 16th and heading up to
Rishikesh (made famous by the Beatles), then onto Dehra Dun and finally up
to Mussoorie which was an old British Hill Station. I'll then catch the
train back to Delhi from Dehra Dun, via Hardiwar on the 21st. Then it's
off to Berlin, via Brussels on....you guessed it.....Brussels Air.
Anyway, it's late and I am off to my concrete mattress. Indians and
Chinese love hard mattresses......I don't. Still at $ 7.50 a day including
a private bathroom, three meals and my beloved Chai Tea twice a day, I
think it's a steal.
Oh.....before I forget.
For those of you who tuned into my last trip to Sri Ram, you might
remember the 3 day old baby that was dropped off at the orphanage. She had
been found in a ditch by two old men. She was subsequently rushed to Delhi
because they thought she would die. Well she didn't.........she is now a
very healthy (and noisy) 6 month old. Yet another testament to the work of
Babiji and the rest of the staff here at Sri Ram. It's all very
inspirational.
So that's it for now.
November
12th, 2007
Well
life is getting back to normal (by Indian standards) after Diwali. Today,
the children are back in school so it will be very quiet around the
ashram. It's nice to have some sort of routine. Up at 6.15am for prayers,
followed by exercises, yoga and then breakfast at 8am. They head off to
school at 8.30am and then come back for lunch around noon.
Sri Ram is such a strange and wonderful place but you sometimes lose sight
of the fact that the real India lurks right outside the compound. Somo,
the crazy monkey who terrifies me, plays his role. His job is to keep the
other monkey's out of the ashram. Monkeys are a big problem here. The dogs
keep the elephants out, which have got into the ashram, from time to time,
and decimated the crops. No-one is quite sure who keeps the cobras out
(which is one reason I keep to the paths and never go out after dark) and
there are apparently tigers that live in the wooded jungle area across the
road. Hardiwar, being one of the seven Holy Hindi cities is strictly
vegetarian so you cannot buy meat or eggs in the town. The tigers......I
doubt......know this important fact so I plan to be extra careful. I don't
intend becoming breakfast, lunch or dinner for a hungry tiger. Apparently,
there are no second chances when it comes to a tiger encounter.
I went into town yesterday to try and buy my train ticket on-line (hoping
that the internet cafes would have a faster modem) but it didn't happen.
They also use dial up. At the ashram, it's dial up to a cellphone which is
probably why it keeps logging me off. I ended up buying one from Dehra Dun
to Delhi on the 21st at a travel agent. It was worth paying the commission
just to make sure that I got a legitimate ticket.
I have been placed on the injured list when it comes to Frisbee Football.
Veena, who is so slight, I am sure she would vibrate if a pin dropped,
decided to head butt me in the ribcage as I was about to throw the frisbee.
The fact that she was on my team, didn't seem to matter. I don't think I
have cracked it but it is severely bruised and painful. I played on until
Samta, also on my team, threw an errant pass and I collided with one of
the volleyball net posts. Violence, in India, is ingrained in their
culture so the children all thought it was a hoot. I could barely move
last night in bed and this morning, it still hurts like hell.
Today, I am heading over to the school to talk to Kavina (Headmistress)
about my Gemmology Scholarship proposal. It's hard to get anyone to make a
decision. I want to get something agreed before I leave because trying to
do anything via phone or e-mail is like pulling teeth. I am also going to
walk down to the Ganges and veg out for a while. I am exhausted running
around after all the children. I am severely outnumbered so they can run
me ragged and they know it. Still......when you look into their eyes and
see their smiling faces, it's all worth it.
Well
yesterday's meeting went quite well. I spoke to Kavina, who is the
headmistress of the Sri Ram School, and she arranged an
"Informational" session with Grade 9's, 10's, 11's and 12's. I
introduced myself, explained what I did for a living (yes......I actually
do work......some of the time), gave them some insight into the Science Of
Gemmology, career opportunities and outlined the Gemmology Scholarship
program that I am trying to set up. I spoke for about 30 minutes, everyone
seemed attentive and nodded from time to time. When I finished, one of the
teachers started to talk at length and I was a little baffled by how long
he spoke for. When I enquired about what was going on, they told me that
he was "Translating" everything I had just said........damn. I
thought they were all conversant in ENGLISH. I learned a very valuable
lesson. Find out first, when doing a public speaking engagement, if they
understand ENGLISH.
Anyway, one of the teachers is interested (which would be good because if
I train him, he can tutor others) and four students have expressed an
interest in the program. Sri Ram would like to have two students do the
program so that they have a "Study Buddy" and it will also help
from a motivational standpoint. I left feeling pretty good about life.
They are also talking about trying to establish a "Vocational"
school so perhaps that is where my program will fit in. They seem very
keen to teach the students a trade instead of just having them complete
Grade 12. I definitely want my involvement, in Sri Ram, to be from an
educational standpoint.
The children have mid-terms on Saturday, Monday and Tuesday, so they have
been holding "Study Halls" after school and I was asked to
help a group (including my little friend Soniya) with their math. I must
admit that I felt rather smart, discussing fractions and common
demoninators. Poor Soniya has the attention span of a fly (it's probably
why I love her so much) so although it was a challenge, we eventually
got through the assignments. She obviously has a learning disability
and I spoke to Gian, who has been involved in Sri Ram since it's
inception, about perhaps finding a "Special Needs" teacher
because some of the children are struggling big time. In Soniya's case,
she can multiply 3 x 17 without a problem but struggles trying to subtract
1 from 7. Anyway, I kept telling myself......."Baby Steps".
Today, I am attending the big cricket game at the school. I am hoping to
be a spectator but knowing my luck, they will probably have me as one
of the "Stumps" (Wicket) (LOL). I've watched the fast
bowlers.......no thanks. I am rather attached to my middle wicket.
I leave for Rishikesh on the 17th. I don't want to leave but I know if I
don't, I never will. You can't help but fall in love with the
children and the work that is being done here.
Anyway, off to watch Vijay and the rest of the boys.
November
15th, 2007
Sorry
again for the mass e-mail but I am contending with a dial up internet
connection to a cellphone so you can imagine.........it's not very
reliable. Twice now, I have typed e-mails and had the internet
connection log me off. I will have to start saving my e-mails to
"Draft" more often.
I just came back from morning prayers, exercises and yoga. While I love
India, there are certain aspects of the culture that upset me. Corporal
punishment for example. Hitting is so ingrained into the culture here
that I doubt even government legislation would stop it. I'm not talking
about a mere tap on the shoulder or on the side of the head, I mean heavy
hitting, not just the children hitting each other but from the teachers
and the ashram supervisors. Ravinda (who supervises the boys) hit little
Priya (a girl) so hard on her back this morning, I thought she was going
to snap. Children are also routinely made to stand, sometimes up to 30
minutes, with their arms outstretched or bent over with their hands
clasped behind their legs. I know the children are not angels but
surely, there are other forms of punishment that aren't so brutal. I worry
about the little ones in particular. Rachina, who has got to be one of the
most gorgeous children I have ever met, seems to get her fair share. It's
so hard to watch. She has the most amazing eyes.
The big cricket game was very entertaining. The whole school turned out to
watch. The children, all in school uniforms, are so adorable. I often
wonder what the future will hold for them. The blue team, made up of boys
from the school, beat the red team made up of students and teachers. Vijay
Paul, in particular, was very impressive, hitting three sixes and one four
off one over (6 balls).
I returned to the ashram find that some-one, I suspect one of the
cleaning ladies, had nipped into my room and helped herself to 4,000
rupees (about $ 100). It was my own fault, I left in a hurry and forgot to
padlock my door. It was just another reminder of the harsh world I am
living in. Poor people will take any opportunity that is offered to them.
They don't view it as stealing, merely survival. Apparently, it has
happened before. The sad thing is, as you all know, I would give my shirt
off my back if some-one needed help. There's no need to steal. I had a
hell of a time trying to get money yesterday in Haridwar. The Punjab Bank
sent me to the India Bank, who sent me to the State Bank who finally sent
me to the Canara Bank. Fortunately, they were able to help me. The
security guy, with a very impressive and vintage looking double barreled
rifle gave me a cash advance. When he said "Sign", I signed on
the dotted line, no questions asked. Now why can't banks be like that at
home ? When I went to the cashier, she had the 1 rupee coins stored in an
Advil container. Ah......India......you have to laugh sometimes.
There was a large explosion at the school. I heard it from my room. One of
the Grade 12 Science students apparently put a firecracker in the toilet
cistern and it almost destroyed the entire bathroom. It could have killed
some-one. Again, youthful exuberance but this time........it could have
had far reaching consequences. Rashmi, is trying to track down the
culprits but no-one is willing to break their silence. She told me
yesterday that all the students will have to pay the damage, their are
about nine of them, unless they own up.
I am still on the injured list. I suspect it is more than a bruised rib. I
keep adding padding to my bed but it is still hard to sleep. I have taken
sleeping pills the last couple of nights but with going to bed at 7.30pm
(it gets quite cold here at night and also in the mornings), I have been
waking up at 3.30am !!!!!
Somo, the wayward monkey, has gone AWOL again. Apparently, he does this
from time to time and goes off to Haridwar (9km's away) to terrorize the
town. The moment he left, a couple of wilder monkey's took residence at
the orphanage so that is another reason to stay indoors at night.
Tomorrow, I leave for Rishikesh so I am not sure if I will have any
internet access until I get back to Delhi on the 22nd. If you don't hear
from me.....that's the only reason.
November 17th, 2007
Well
I made it to Rishikesh, just a short hop (about 35km's), via taxi from
Haridwar.
I left Sri Ram with a heavy heart this morning. Last night was amazing and
it had me thinking that perhaps I should forgo Rishikesh and stay with the
children. Arti (Evening Prayer Song) was unbelievable. Usually, it a free
for all with the girls acting up. It's a game to them, they think it's
funny. I don't always see the funny side because I hate to see any of them
get into trouble but I guess, it's the Indian way. The percussion section
(Vijay Raj on tabla, Vijay Paul on Drums and yours truly on finger
cymbals) worked up a sweat....literally. It was almost mesmerizing. I knew
I was doing a good job from all the approving nods I got. Vijay R told me
afterwards that I was hired. From now on, whenever I am at the orphanage,
I'm the man when it comes to brass finger cymbals.
I went to bed on quite a high, fell asleep for a couple of hours and then
woke up twiddling my thumbs. Lots on my mind....all good but this has been
a very emotional trip and the more time I spend at the orphanage, the more
introspective I become.
I got up early (5.45am), had my cup of Chai tea, watched the children do
their prayers and exercises and then joined them for one final prayer and
yoga session. I decided to help serve breakfast again because to be
honest, paying 300 rupees a night for room and board makes me feel guilty.
I also like doing it so there's an added plus.
The taxi arrived on time and I decided to take the scenic route to
Rishikesh, via Chilla. The trip took me through the jungle, which is also
a conservation area, alongside the canal and past the dam, complete
with spotted deer, tons of monkeys, wild boars, cows and a
working elephant called Raja. The one hour trip, by private taxi,
including the 100 rupee conservation tax, cost me a staggering 600 rupees
(about $ 15).
Rishikesh is not exactly what I expected. Dominated by the Ganges, it is
divided in half with suspension bridges connecting both sides of the town
(probably a good thing otherwise it wouldn't fit the definition of a
bridge). I am glad that I hired a porter to carry my bags from where the
taxi dropped me off to the Hotel Divya. The bridge was a madhouse,
complete with scooters and motorbikes. India, once again, on steriods. The
hotel is decent, I'm on the roof (well actually a room on the roof)
overlooking The Ganges for a whopping 150 rupees a night. The room
includes a comfortable double bed (yipee), a private bath and....wait for
it...hot water. I also have a western toilet which is nice.
In typical Indian fashion, Laxman Jhula (the area I am staying in) is
inundated with jeeps. Of course, the roads can barely sustain a bicycle
but I guess the one advantage of driving a big ass jeep is that you can
run into things with minimal damage. It is like a three ring circus
without the clowns. I am here for two days......anymore and I think they
would drive me mad. If there is one thing an Indian should never drive,
it's a jeep. They are totally fearless on a bicycle....imagine them
driving a fortified jeep.
There are also too many "Whities" here. New Agers that to be
honest give me the creeps. I never consider myself white when I travel
throughout India. The women all have dreadlocks and flowing skirts, the
men.......ditto. Thank God most of the men have beards. In Haridwar, a
white person sticks out like a sore thumb, in Rishikesh, not so much. I
wonder what it was like in the mid 60's when Paul, John, George and Ringo
visited Marharishi Mahesh Yogi ? I doubt it has changed that much.
I found a fabulous restaurant that serves great chai tea at 8 rupees a
cup. Lunch, at a staggering 63 rupees (about $ 1.50) consisted of
Channa Masala (Chick Peas), boiled rice, copious amounts of naan bread and
tea. I have no idea how they can afford to do it......but I guess with a
hotel room costing less than $ 4.00 a night, all things are relative.
You can live like a King in India but it can be tough sledding. Nothing
here is what it seems. As I have said before, India is the land where the
impossible is possible and the possible......totally impossible.
Anyway, here's a link to Wikipedia and more about Rishikesh.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rishikesh
November
19th, 2007
Well
I made it to Rishikesh, just a short hop (about 35km's), via taxi from
Haridwar.
I left Sri Ram with a heavy heart this morning. Last night was amazing and
it had me thinking that perhaps I should forgo Rishikesh and stay with the
children. Arti (Evening Prayer Song) was unbelievable. Usually, it a free
for all with the girls acting up. It's a game to them, they think it's
funny. I don't always see the funny side because I hate to see any of them
get into trouble but I guess, it's the Indian way. The percussion section
(Vijay Raj on tabla, Vijay Paul on Drums and yours truly on finger
cymbals) worked up a sweat....literally. It was almost mesmerizing. I knew
I was doing a good job from all the approving nods I got. Vijay R told me
afterwards that I was hired. From now on, whenever I am at the orphanage,
I'm the man when it comes to brass finger cymbals.
I went to bed on quite a high, fell asleep for a couple of hours and then
woke up twiddling my thumbs. Lots on my mind....all good but this has been
a very emotional trip and the more time I spend at the orphanage, the more
introspective I become.
I got up early (5.45am), had my cup of Chai tea, watched the children do
their prayers and exercises and then joined them for one final prayer and
yoga session. I decided to help serve breakfast again because to be
honest, paying 300 rupees a night for room and board makes me feel guilty.
I also like doing it so there's an added plus.
The taxi arrived on time and I decided to take the scenic route to
Rishikesh, via Chilla. The trip took me through the jungle, which is also
a conservation area, alongside the canal and past the dam, complete
with spotted deer, tons of monkeys, wild boars, cows and a
working elephant called Raja. The one hour trip, by private taxi,
including the 100 rupee conservation tax, cost me a staggering 600 rupees
(about $ 15).
Rishikesh is not exactly what I expected. Dominated by the Ganges, it is
divided in half with suspension bridges connecting both sides of the town
(probably a good thing otherwise it wouldn't fit the definition of a
bridge). I am glad that I hired a porter to carry my bags from where the
taxi dropped me off to the Hotel Divya. The bridge was a madhouse,
complete with scooters and motorbikes. India, once again, on steriods. The
hotel is decent, I'm on the roof (well actually a room on the roof)
overlooking The Ganges for a whopping 150 rupees a night. The room
includes a comfortable double bed (yipee), a private bath and....wait for
it...hot water. I also have a western toilet which is nice.
In typical Indian fashion, Laxman Jhula (the area I am staying in) is
inundated with jeeps. Of course, the roads can barely sustain a bicycle
but I guess the one advantage of driving a big ass jeep is that you can
run into things with minimal damage. It is like a three ring circus
without the clowns. I am here for two days......anymore and I think they
would drive me mad. If there is one thing an Indian should never drive,
it's a jeep. They are totally fearless on a bicycle....imagine them
driving a fortified jeep.
There are also too many "Whities" here. New Agers that to be
honest give me the creeps. I never consider myself white when I travel
throughout India. The women all have dreadlocks and flowing skirts, the
men.......ditto. Thank God most of the men have beards. In Haridwar, a
white person sticks out like a sore thumb, in Rishikesh, not so much. I
wonder what it was like in the mid 60's when Paul, John, George and Ringo
visited Marharishi Mahesh Yogi ? I doubt it has changed that much.
I found a fabulous restaurant that serves great chai tea at 8 rupees a
cup. Lunch, at a staggering 63 rupees (about $ 1.50) consisted of
Channa Masala (Chick Peas), boiled rice, copious amounts of naan bread and
tea. I have no idea how they can afford to do it......but I guess with a
hotel room costing less than $ 4.00 a night, all things are relative.
You can live like a King in India but it can be tough sledding. Nothing
here is what it seems. As I have said before, India is the land where the
impossible is possible and the possible......totally impossible.
Anyway, here's a link to Wikipedia and more about Rishikesh.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rishikesh
November 20th, 2007
Thanks for all your e-mails. I know time is tight so I do appreciate
you all taking the time to drop me a line. I am heading to Dehradun at 2pm
and then taking the train to Delhi at 5pm. The hotel in Delhi has internet
but it rarely works so.........you may not hear from me until I get to
Berlin, sometime on the 23rd. I just don't want you worrying about me
(LOL).
I just came back from Kempty Falls. A 30 minute taxi drive from Mussoorie.
We drifted there in neutral for about 25 minutes. I have to hand it to
Indian drivers....they are all mad BUT they seem to get the job done. The
falls are very impressive BUT there is so much rubbish about and I was
alarmed and bemused to see the restaurant vendors taking water from the
pool at the bottom of the falls (where the people stand to have their
photograph taken) for cooking. Needless to say......I didn't eat a thing.
I did however find a rarity in India, a chocolate bar that wasn't white
with age. Things are looking up (LOL). I also got a great glimpse of the
snow capped Himalayas.......I guess I am almost on the roof of the earth.
Well
I lied about the internet access.....
Yesterday started out well with a quick trip to Kempty Falls followed by a
nice lunch and then a very leisurely drive to Dehradun to board the
train to Delhi. From there......the day rapidly deteriorated.
I found the right train, the right coach and the right seat.
Unfortunately, when we arrived in Haridwar, an elderly Indian lady (who
was bossy to say the least) decided to reconfigure the seating so that two
women could sit together. Being a lone traveller, I had to make way and
got the seat that no-one wants, aisle seat, front of the coach, right by
the toilet. If I had a rupee for every time the door opened, I'd be rich.
I really did want to throttle the woman. To make matters worse, as the
journey progressed, the aroma got worse and it was just like sitting in a
public lavatory for 5 hours. By the time I got to Delhi, I was fit to be
tied.
I negotiated a 250 rupee taxi ride back to the SunCity Hotel and then
fought with a porter who was indignant that I only offered him 45
rupees to carry my bags to the taxi (he wanted 100 rupees). When we got to
the cab, he flatly refused my money so I shut the door, mentioned
something about his mother and we drove off. Of course, when I say drove
off, that's not entirely true, snails move faster than taxis at the Delhi
Train Station. Within seconds, my friend was banging on the window, took
the 45 rupees and gave me a stare that would freeze an Eskimo. I am
definitely going to Hell. We arrived at the SunCity only for the taxi
driver to demand another 50 rupees. I told him NO and made some reference
to his mother and he drove off. By this time, it was midnight, I was
tired, fed up with all the hassles and I just wanted a nice hot shower and
a comfy bed. I didn't want to hear the words "Sorry Sir.....we don't
have a reservation in your name". Could the train porter have that
much influence ? I tried to charm the reception clerk but there was no
room in the inn and short of sleeping in the lobby, I was stranded.
Fortunately, he made some calls and found me a place just around the
corner.
In typical "Indian" fashion, my room has a telephone in the loo,
a very swish sink and a toilet that refuses to flush. Did I mention the
fact that it leaked ? Still at 1600 rupees, it's a steal right ? It did
however have a really soft bed and after ensuring that the shower did have
hot water, I retired to bed.
This morning, I tried to get breakfast at Raffles only to be told that
they did not open until 11am. I walked around, went back at the prescribed
time, dodged a mouse that shot out of the kitchen and tried to order some
Indian food. "Sorry..we only have Pizza and Chinese.......Indian food
is not ready yet. "When will it be ready ?" I asked. "It
will take time". I didn't bother to ask how much time because it
really wouldn't have mattered what he said, he would only have been
providing lip service. I settled for two mushroom vegetable turnovers at a
bakery and then headed to McDonalds for a tea and a strawberry sundae.
I needed to get to Sunder Nagar (a shopping district) to pick up two
singing bowls for Doreen and some more tea. Funnily enough, I asked three
vickram drivers and no-one had heard of the place. I finally found a very
amenable chap, who knew where it was and seemed extremely confident (which
in India is a bad sign). Turned out, we found the place, he waited
patiently, then drove me to a restaurant called "Splash"
for lunch, the chemist (I have picked up a cold) and then dropped me back
at the Hotel. I asked him about his life, he has three small children, a
stay at home wife and he gets paid 350 rupees a day for working 8am
to 7pm, seven days a week. That's less than $ 1.00 an hour, driving
365 days a year in Delhi traffic. I gave him a 500 rupee tip.
Anyway, off to the airport and the final leg of my adventure. Today, there
have been four power outages so I am hoping that the "Travel
Gods" will smile down on me and ensure that the flight leaves on
time. I'm flying Air Brussels.......I've never heard of them but I hope to
God that the pilot knows where he is going.
Just
a quick e-mail from Brussels. Getting into Delhi airport was a nightmare,
getting out even worse. Six security checks. I would have paid money to be
back on the lavatory train. It is just absolute CHAOS with a capital
"C3. On the plus side, Jet Airways was totally brilliant. Menus, real
cutlery, china plus a personal multi-media screen. Nine hours just
flew by...........no pun intended.
Now I'm off to Berlin.
November
23rd, 2007
Just
another quick update, I arrived in Berlin on time. More
importantly......so did my bags. After the fiasco in Delhi, I really
didn't know where they would end up !!!!!! It's overcast and raining but I
am still looking forward to seeing this great city. It's always been on my
list of things to do. My "Around The World" adventure is almost
complete, I've covered about 3/4's now and just the Frankfurt to Vancouver
leg left. Another "Must Do" to cross of my list.
November 24th, 2007
Wow.......I love
Berlin. So much history.......however, much of it......unfortunately
modern history and for all the wrong reasons.
Ports of call included the Reichstag (German Parliament), Potsdamer Platz
(formerly no man's land), The Sony Centre, the Holocaust Memorial,
Checkpoint Charlie, Brandenburg Gate and the ultra modern Hauptbahnhof
Central Train Station.
If this trip wasn't already an emotional one, visiting Berlin, has
certainly added to it. It's such a beautiful cty with such an
horrendous past and it's hard to believe that it has been less than 20
years since the wall came down. I have to admire Berlin for recognizing
it's past and not hiding it. I can't imagine what it must have been
like, living in a divided city, in a divided country. I also had to
wonder, as we stood in the area that was formerly known as "No Man's
Land", how many people died trying to reach the west and freedom.
Anyway...........lots to think about, maybe too much.
Sorry there are no more photos available but the cameraman drank too much
beer last night.
I also visited the White Trash Club last night and heard an amazing band,
the Ele Fants. So much energy and so many funky people. Berlin, it would
seem, is a city of extremes.
Change of plans.........Air Berlin upped their fares, so did the German
Rail (it pays to book early) so I am taking a "Car Share",
Monday night to Frankfurt (it's a 6 hour trip), then an overnight stay in
Frankfurt and hopefully, a flight back to Vancouver on Tuesday. I think
the only form of transportation I haven't taken, this trip, is a
camel......(LOL).
November
26th, 2007
Well
I am just about ready to leave for Frankfurt, a six hour car ride tonight.
Before then, Doreen, Sebastian and I will be sightseeing in Potsdam, which
is a about a 40 minute train ride from Berlin. I LOVE Berlin with a
capital "L". It is an amazing city that has exceeded even my
highest expectations. We visited East Side Gallery yesterday which is a 1
km stretch of the original 4th Generation Berlin Wall. It really gave me a
sense of what it must have been like from 1961 to 1989. I took so many
photos of the artwork that now adorns the wall. I also signed it.......so
I guess am now a part of it's history !!!!!!
Tomorrow is looking favourable, I have three flight options to Vancouver,
via either Calgary, Montreal or Toronto.....so.....fingers crossed, I will
complete my goal of circumnavigating the world sometime tomorrow. Cool.
November
28th, 2007
To
quote an old Gilbert O'Sullivan song, I arrived home safely around 8pm
last night (27th) into Vancouver.
The "Shared Car Ride" from Berlin to Frankfurt was good. I was a
bit dubious, riding with three other strangers, on the autobahn, in
wintery weather, for six hours but we made it and it was cheap......25
euros. Ride sharing is very big in Germany mainly due to the high cost of
petrol. We did take a wrong turn to Dortmund but other than that, it was a
great way to meet new people and learn more German.
The Topas Hotel in Frankfurt was really nice although I checked in at 1am
and checked out at 6.30am so I am not sure if I can technically say I
stayed the night. Very modern, very clean, very German (which is a good
thing). Took a taxi to the airport and that's when the fun started. No
offence to Frankfurt airport but really.........CONFUSION as to where to
check in. The taxi drivers airport manual said Terminal 1, Airport
Information said Terminal 2. When I finally found the Air Canada check-in's,
they were closed (3 hours before flight time) with a sign saying to check
in at Luthansa (which was miles away). When I got to Luthanasa, they said
"No" (of course.....) and told me to go back to Air Canada.
Finally some-one showed up, I pointed out the sign and she just shrugged
her shoulders. She did however, give me a confirmed seat so all was not
lost. There was a backlog at security because there was only one woman
security guard so all the women in line had to wait. There were however
three security men (really........has it been proven that only 25% of all
travellers are women ?????) and then when I got to the gate, it was closed
so everyone had to sit in makeshift seating. In typical fashion, there
were only enough seats for about 30% of the people. In really.....if the
check-in counter is open......so should the gate.....right ?
Air Canada.......sorry Mel.....but flying on different airlines gives you
a different perspective. I'm not sure if Air Canada even rates. In total,
I took three flights with them yesterday (Frankfurt to Montreal, Montreal
to Toronto and then Toronto to Vancouver). No personal media stations in
the seat back, the Frankfurt to Montreal flight only had one meal option,
even though it was only 70% full......and you guessed it......it was
CHICKEN. On all three flights, my head rest was broken, two of the
headsets only worked in one ear (I thought I was going deaf) and on the
Frankfurt to Montreal flight, the old guy next to me flatulated (sorry
farted) about every five minutes........not completely Air Canada's fault
although I do think this should be asked at check-in......DO YOU
FART.....MUCH ? Fortunately, I found three empty seats so I moved and
had a laydown which was a bonus. The female staff were surly, they all
spoke French as their first language and even on the Toronto to Vancouver
flight, French was spoken first. Don't get me wrong......I know I live in
a bi-lingual country BUT isn't English also spoken in Canada ?
Anyway.......all in all, it took 17 1/2 hours to get home from
Frankfurt.....the curse of flying standby.
I did however figure out one thing this trip. I started out from Vancouver
flying west and continued to fly west the entire time. I eventually ended
up back in Vancouver. Therefore......and I may be wrong....but I don't
think so......I have hypothesized that the world is actually ROUND.
COOL.......
Thanks for all your e-mails and words of encouragement. This has been an
amazing trip, I have seen some unbelievable things, done some unbelievable
things and met some unbelievable people. The thing that struck me the
most...........the 1 km stretch of the 4th Generation BERLIN WALL at East
Side Gallery. I never thought I would be so fascinated with it but I was.
I can't believe that humanity allowed this to happen in my life time but
then again, I can't believe that we are still killing each other either.
The world is full of beautiful people plus a few bad apples.
Unfortunately, it's the bad apples that keep upsetting the apple
cart.........
